Escape from Reality at "La Locanda del Notaio"

One of the many advantages of life in Switzerland is the easy access to Italy.  A mere three hours’ drive from Zürich, across mountain meadows, through the Alps via the San Bernadino tunnel, following the Hinterrhein valley (and here the source of the Rhine is not much more than a creek), and one comes upon the gorgeous Lago di Lugano.  Still in Switzerland, the city of Lugano has all the appearance of a Renaissance Italian municipality, complete with 18^th century lakeside villas.

But before doing our Lugano shopping in earnest, the first order of business was lunch.  Feeling reckless and unaccountably flush, we chose a Michelin Star restaurant (sight unseen) above nearby Como, called La Locanda del Notaio.

After a white-knuckle drive climbing the very steep, twisting, sometimes one-car-wide road outside Lugano, we arrived at a large estate with a classy country dwelling that had been transformed into a restaurant and four-star hotel.  The proprietaria, Simonetta Manara, also an accomplished theatre choreographer, had the inspiration to develop this gastronomic wonder of local produce and elegant cuisine, named for her husband Attilio, who is a notary. The creative chef, Eduardo Fumagalli, is one of the youngest “Michelin-starred” chefs in Italy, gaining experience at Dal Marchesino in Milan, Le Taillevent in Paris, and Daniel in New York.

The location was charming in itself, at an altitude of almost a thousand meters, and in view of the gorgeous Lepontine Alps, the grounds outside the restaurant cover 10 thousand square meters of gardens, gravel paths, hydrangea bushes, and fish ponds surrounded with reeds.  Lawn furniture, tables and lounge chairs placed in convivial groups adds to the air of genteel relaxation. 

The star awarded by Michelin is indeed deserved.  Upon being seated in the summer dining room open to the outside with linen curtains pulled back to display the gardens, we were provided with a series of what the French call amuse-bouche, tasty treats from the kitchen consisting of savory fish paste rolled in pastry, snow peas in a mustard sauce and a wonderful potato foam surrounding a quail egg and drizzled with truffle oil and crunchy quinoa.  Our efficient and friendly server, who’s English was excellent, suggested a marvelous wine with our main courses, a Mastro Janni 2011 Brunello di Montalcino.  After desert, we took our coffees and wines out across the lawn to enjoy in the shady lounge chairs. 

Relaxing in the warm sunny gardens seemed a better way to spend the afternoon than returning to Lugano for shopping, but reluctantly we piled back in the car, hoping to reach Lugano before the store closed.  For the return trip we opted to drive back through Como, giving us a view of the beautiful landscapes of both Lago di Como and Lago di Lugano. We may return here another time to stay in the four-star hotel, the ancient country house, which was recently renovated with all modernity and amenities, as Madame Manara explained to us, also in excellent English.  What a lovely afternoon!

La Locanda del Notaio

Via Piano delle Noci, 42
22020 Pellio Intelvi – Como, Italy
www.lalocandadelnotaio.com