Tuesday, September 2, 2014

Living the Dream in the South of France


Courtyard of Castillon du Gard

Knowing the fine dining restaurants in Languedoc takes more than reading reviews on travel sites.  My good fortune is in travelling with friends who know this region, and are happy sharing their expertise with me. 

We called ahead for dinner reservations at the Hotel Le Vieux Castillon, a lovely hotel in the medieval village of Castillon du Gard.  I had driven the Route de Nîmes many times from Bagnols sur Cèze to Nîmes, but did not remember seeing this village, tucked away from the road behind the plane trees and vineyards.  The evening promised to be mild, no wind, and the clouds reflected a warm rosy glow of the setting sun on the ancient limestone buildings of the village.

Ancient streets of Castillon du Gard

Like so many villages in this part of Languedoc-Rousillion and Provence, Castillon du Gard dates from about the 11th century, is built on a hill, has evidence of Roman influence, and probably began as a Celtic oppidum in the years before the Roman legions arrived in the 1st century BC.  The courtyard leading to the restaurant was shaded with ancient olive and cypress trees, and huge terracotta pots had been placed near the hedges of pink and white blooming oleander bushes.  The steps led up to a terrace with the outdoor seating, with umbrellas and cushions of green and white stripes.  Inside the restaurant the décor was elegant, yet relaxed, with an emphasis of southern French style.  The menu was heavy on the “classics of regional gastronomy.”

Living the Dream...

I wandered up to the terrace with the swimming pool which overlooked the Gardon River valley, noting the section of a wall kept as a romantic ruin, empty windows and stairs leading nowhere, just like a Salvador Dali painting.  Behind me the evening sky became a deeper blue, and the warm lights from the restaurant interior shone on our wine glasses.  Dinner was relaxed, starting with the appetizers, called amuse gueule, and carried on to the cheeses and dessert. 

Still not sure how I had overlooked this lovely spot, I was reminded that I had no excuse: the Pont du Gard was only about 5 km south of here, and the Roman city of Nîmes was just a bit beyond.  Another reason to take the less-travelled path when exploring Languedoc --  to experience some regional delights!

For a lovely stay in a four-star hotel, and romantic dinner the next time you’re in the south of France, try:

Hotel Le Vieux Castillon

10 rue Turion Sabatier

30210 Castillon du Gard, France

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